Urea

Humectant that draws moisture into skin and softens keratin.

Also known as: Carbamide, urea (INCI: Urea)

What it is

Urea is a naturally occurring organic compound found in skin and urine. In skincare, it's synthesized and used as a humectant and keratolytic agent that penetrates the stratum corneum to bind water and soften dead skin cells.

What it does

Urea hydrates skin by drawing moisture from the dermis into the epidermis and binding it there, improving skin hydration and plumpness. At higher concentrations (10–40%), it also gently exfoliates by softening and loosening keratin, making it useful for calluses, xerosis, and rough patches. It strengthens the skin barrier by restoring natural moisturizing factors.

The evidence

Strong clinical evidence supports urea's hydrating and keratolytic effects; it is a well-established pharmaceutical and cosmetic ingredient with decades of dermatological use. Moderate to strong evidence for barrier repair and reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

Best for

Dry, dehydrated, and compromised skin; xerosis; calluses; eczema-prone skin; and those needing gentle exfoliation without irritation.

Pairs well with

Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, niacinamide, and other humectants and barrier-repair ingredients for enhanced hydration and barrier support.

Use cautiously with

High concentrations (>10%) may be irritating if combined with strong actives (retinoids, vitamin C, AHAs/BHAs) on sensitive skin; use sequentially or reduce frequency. No major ingredient conflicts at typical cosmetic levels (2–10%).

Cautions

At high concentrations (>10%), urea can cause mild stinging or irritation on sensitive or compromised skin; start low and titrate. Avoid contact with eyes. Generally safe in pregnancy and for all skin types at recommended levels.